L'Oréal Travel Retail's Catia Martins discusses regional reset

L'Oréal Travel Retail (L'Oréal TR) is establishing its first permanent team in Dubai. The beauty giant's new office marks a strategic shift toward consumer-centric operations in the Middle East, Africa and India (MEAI) region, where markets are experiencing double-digit growth.

The facility will be led by Antoine Rizkallah, and will house a full team covering marketing activation, sales and HR notably, while the company continues supplying logistically from Europe. "We're really taking a step forward, putting a strong foot on the region and pushing forward with a lot of developments," says Catia Martins, Managing Director for Travel Retail Europe & MEAI at L'Oréal.

Managing business for this region from Europe led to L'Oréal missing critical consumer insights specific to those cultures. Understanding traveler profiles is at the core of its activation strategy and since the global beauty landscape in travel retail is constantly evolving, L'Oréal’s role is to master every nuance to personalize offers. For example, the senses and aromas that appeal to consumers in the Middle East, Africa and India differ significantly from European preferences.

“If the team continues to work in Europe, insights would be very skewed to Europe,” explains Martins. "By establishing a team [in Dubai], when we think about creating exclusive products or offers that truly reflect each region, we’ll be equipped to do so. We’re really tailoring our approach and being much more consumer-centric than if using a one-size-fits-all model from Europe.”

She adds, “This model has served us in the past – and teams have achieved great results; however, it is time to pivot into a new configuration that will allow us to accelerate even further and be closer to our clients."

Middle Eastern preferences

Luxury, exclusivity, and experiences matter profoundly in the MEAI region. Being treated as a luxury guest is central to consumer expectations in this part of the world. Each culture has its own unique nuances, that differ markedly from those in Europe.

Brand preferences vary across these markets. Armani performs exceptionally well in India, while Yves Saint Laurent enjoys strong appeal throughout the region. In hair care, Kérastase meets the needs of consumers who place great importance on hair health, particularly in humid climates. The brand particularly stands out by offering tailor-made protocols, driven by personalized AI diagnostic services that measure hair and scalp conditions and needs. Meanwhile, UV-protection products address the region’s intense sun exposure. However, the bulk of sales come from fragrances, increasingly driven by the appeal of haute perfumery.

India and Dubai present distinct consumer challenges requiring different approaches. In India, much remains to be built. The market has potential with a large, wealthy population currently buying mainly outside India. Also, average prices are roughly one-fourth of those in Dubai.

"If we want to develop India, we need to put our flag in! It’s all about building brands, having the relevant portfolio and consumer offers, and future proofing ourselves today for the business of tomorrow," says Martins.

The Doha blueprint

Recently opened in partnership with Qatar Airways in Doha, Lancôme Café de la Rose is the first-ever Lancôme café in an airport and the second globally after the Champs-Élysées location. It is designed to offer an unexpected luxurious encounter of French art de vivre, blending Lancôme's luxury universe with Lenôtre's exquisite patisserie, alongside the brand's latest perfumes.

“The idea is to transform what was once a very transactional airport experience into something far more engaging and sensory for consumers,” says Martins. “What we appreciate about this region, especially Hamad International Airport, is its drive to pioneer new experiences. Our challenge is to surprise and capture consumers’ attention.”

Entertainment zone

Gen Z, true entertainment consumers, are drawn to appealing and often playful in-store animations, with immediate value propositions. “Fifty-two percent spend more on experiences than on material goods, and when traveling, 43% choose destinations based on airport experiences,” Martins recalls. “Our mission is clear: to transform the airport into a vibrant Entertainment Destination, crafting unique and memorable moments and authentic connections that resonate long after departure.”

For example, in late August, Armani launched “Armani in the Spotlight” in Doha. Deeply Gen-Z driven, this activation captures the glamour of Hollywood through immersive experiences. Inspired by its cinematic legacy, the activation showcases personalized services and a range of iconic Armani Beauty products. According to the team, it also champions individuality and self-expression, empowering the new generation to discover their “inner star and shine.”

Capturing Gen Z

The next generation of consumers place greater emphasis on skin health than previous ones. To address this trend, this summer in France, at Charles de Gaulle Airport, Kiehl's deployed “Bones Around the Globe,” a playful and engaging concept rather than a purely clinical approach. Depending on their destination, travelers received diagnostics and personalized product routines to keep skin comfortable under sun, snow or humidity.

Reaching this demographic means meeting them where they are. “You need to attract them on the screen because they are on the screen,” Martins says. “The challenge is shifting them from screen mode to feel mode.

To achieve this, L’Oréal connects with Gen Z even before they arrive at the airport, using Journey Uber partnerships and call-to-actions to guide them toward counters and pop-ups. “Over 70% [of Gen Z] say they buy on impulse,” Martins notes. “So, it’s essential to surprise them with something fresh and different they can’t find in their local market.”

Pentarchy partnerships

L'Oréal's collaborative approach brings brands, retailers, airports, airlines and digital partners around the table. "It's really this full ecosystem that needs to work together to make sure we move from transactional to experiential mode," Martins says. “Digital is an essential component of our travel retail strategy. We are breaking down silos to build a pre- and post-trip seamless consumer journey.”

TR importance

"There's an image I have, which is that bubble of peace when consumers pass through security; many are in vacation mode," Martins says. "That's when we want to capture them."

"L’Oréal considers travel retail to be a highly strategic channel," Martins says. "With such a virtual or online world that we live in, travel retail is a place where you can really showcase to consumers the full power and expression of our brands – from mind-blowing flagships to high-end, technological or fun experiences one can feel or touch! An amazing ground to build brand image and bond with consumers. A place where we can surprise consumers by entertaining them.”

Considering L'Oréal’s rich portfolio of brands, the company believes it has an answer for almost any consumer need. “We are confident that this human-centric, innovation-driven approach will not only drive growth but also solidify L'Oréal’s leadership in the ever-evolving landscape of global beauty,” she concludes.